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Monday, November 18, 2013

Community Encounters: "Oy, Amerikanitz! Get over here!"

Beware Russians asking for T-shirt translations.

A week ago, my neighbour across the hall came out of his apartment at the same moment I did. I had seen him around before: he can frequently be spotted on the building's front stoop, sucking down a cigarette and glowering out at the youths in the yard. This time he stopped me to ask what was written on his shirt.

This shirt would look good on your bedroom floor.

Andrei is a plump, buzz-bald married man in in his early thirties. Obviously he had purchased that particular article of clothing secondhand. Nevertheless, he found it entertaining and it served as an ice breaker between us. We struck up a conversation, but it wasn't an especially fabulous one. I could tell he was struggling to understand me, and I was on my way to buy groceries for dinner anyhow, so I wasn't particularly invested. When he found out my destination, he promptly invited me to dinner. “We're neighbours, we should get to know each other!” I agreed, though cautiously. Everything seemed pleasant enough, but he also did not strike me as the type of person with whom I wanted a close friendship.

How right my instincts were. After stepping foot in his house, I could no longer do anything correctly in his eyes.
“What are you doing? Take your shoes off. What the hell kind of socks are those?” (A: Black dress socks.)
“Would you sit down already, I know my house is nice. Stand up, we're going to move this table. Sit down, dammit!”
If I tried to talk to anyone else in the room, “What, you care more about them than the guy who invited you?”
If I asked about the toys around the house and what I assumed was his child, “What's it to you?”
If I ate, I was wrong. If not, he was insulted.
If I was serious, “You don't understand anything I say.” If I smiled, “What are you laughing at?”
Needless to say, the whole exchange was laced with some of the more choice cuss words of the rich Russian lexicon.

His affable door step nature had become irrationally confrontational. My biggest clue that this was his own problem and not anything I had done was the discomfort with which his wife and close friends sat around the table. I started to recognise other tell-tale signs of drunkeness. He was overly affectionate toward his guy friends, couldn't discern minor pronunciation mistakes, was more than a tad rosy in the cheeks, and repeated himself often. His mantra: “I don't love Americans.” When asked why, his answer was, “I don't like McDonald's.”

His wife Alla was such a trooper. If not for her, I would have felt so much more uncomfortable than I already did. She stayed on him throughout. “Leave him alone. You already said that, and it was rude the first time. We've already discussed this behaviour. You need to go to bed. Why in God's name did you invite him over here if you don't want him to get to know us at all? That's enough, go smoke a cigarette.” After thirty minutes of hen-pecking and “I don't love Americans,” Alla managed to shuffle him out the door for a smoke. When she returned to the kitchen, she flicked her jugular in the universal Soviet symbol which means That guy's wasted and told me, “You had better leave now before he comes back. Don't open the door for anyone.” I thanked her profusely for the invitation, food, defence, and hospitality, and scurried across the hall to the sanctuary of my own apartment, without further incident.

*          *          *          *          *

On my way to the market the next morning to gather supplies for cooking club, I hear someone bellow across the crowded street, “Oy, Amerikanitz! Get over here!” Naturally, the morning market throng is staring at me as I tip my cap in a 'Yep, that's me.' sort of gesture. There is Andrei, and I'm nervous. I left last night in secret, without saying goodbye or shaking hands. Russian men can be so weird about that, even if you're not specifically a guest in their home. All seems to be fine, to my relief. I get introduced around to another 5 people, all of whom are very kind. Andrei is apparently still drunk, and has no recollection of what took place last night. “Did I tell you how much I don't love Americans?” Yes. Yes you did.

*          *          *          *          *

Another day passes, and I pass Andrei in the stairwell. This must be the first time we've ever spoken and been sober, because he is extremely contrite. He tells me how much he hopes nothing offended me the other night, and apologises for his drunken behaviour. I sweep it all under the rug, wanting only to move on without incident.

It's nice to know that, when sober, he is a perfectly polite man. It's discouraging how rarely he seems to be that way, though. We've gone several days back at our customary nod and hello, and I take comfort in the fact that Alla is indeed an ally. The last thing I need is more neighbour problems, and all I wanted was to be nice and buy some groceries. That's the last T-shirt I translate.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Mini H.E.A.L.

One of the major ongoing projects in Ukraine is HEAL. The primary focus of this project is a summer camp which helps combat the major problems facing Ukraine: human trafficking, HIV/AIDS, healthy relationships, and leadership development. The project doesn't just stop at the end of two weeks in July, however. Years back, a team of ingenious PCV's modelled a weekend day camp after the summer version, in order that the message reach more students in smaller schools with lower English levels. That's my school!

As with anything remotely new, my Ukrainians liked the idea of hosting an anti-AIDS program that would bring volunteers and T-shirts, but when the project started coming together there was increased scepticism. Our students will not want to sing songs, and they will not participate in discussions about sex. Our parents will complain if we demonstrate how to use condoms. Our cafeteria workers will not be able to make lunch. You will have difficulty gathering 30 students. No one will understand what you are talking about, and we can not translate everything.

Naturally, challenges were overcome. 30 students joined and, after an acclimation period, really got involved in the camp songs and chants. They participated in the discussions, activities, and competitions. Everyone had an excellent time, and several parents sent their thanks. One male student's mother told our principal that she was so glad that her son had had an opportunity to learn this valuable information at such a pivotal point in his life (8th grade). We were even thanked for the condom demonstration. Students came up to me all throughout the week after and asked if they could participate the following weekend (sorry, one time only), and several expressed interest in attending the full camp in the summer.

Of course, I had a boatload of help. Three extremely motivated and talented students came from across state lines at their own expense to act as youth counsellors and quasi-translators. They were total rock stars, and there's something valuable about receiving the message from peers instead of a bunch of foreign adults. Two other PCV's also came down from eastern towns in order to facilitate lessons. I could have maybe fumbled through teaching all thirty kids at once, but the ability to split the students into smaller groups was crucial. Most importantly, one obscenely knowledgeable and generous volunteer in particular came with all the lessons and materials necessary to make our two-day camp a success. In reality, this only happened because of her brains and enthusiasm.

Blah, okay. Pictures of kids learning!

Drawing healthy versus infected cells

Some brick faces in there.

Biology lesson

Some ice breaker that I wasn't a part of... 

Yay! Happy students!

The main event...

Doing an activity on stigma and discrimination.

Prejudice activity

Everyone's favourite ice breaker: People to People!

Bullying lesson

The winning team's paper tower. Leadership and communication succeed!

Tired, sick, but carrying on

Everyone receives T-shirts, bracelets, diplomas, and smiles!