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Monday, November 18, 2013

Community Encounters: "Oy, Amerikanitz! Get over here!"

Beware Russians asking for T-shirt translations.

A week ago, my neighbour across the hall came out of his apartment at the same moment I did. I had seen him around before: he can frequently be spotted on the building's front stoop, sucking down a cigarette and glowering out at the youths in the yard. This time he stopped me to ask what was written on his shirt.

This shirt would look good on your bedroom floor.

Andrei is a plump, buzz-bald married man in in his early thirties. Obviously he had purchased that particular article of clothing secondhand. Nevertheless, he found it entertaining and it served as an ice breaker between us. We struck up a conversation, but it wasn't an especially fabulous one. I could tell he was struggling to understand me, and I was on my way to buy groceries for dinner anyhow, so I wasn't particularly invested. When he found out my destination, he promptly invited me to dinner. “We're neighbours, we should get to know each other!” I agreed, though cautiously. Everything seemed pleasant enough, but he also did not strike me as the type of person with whom I wanted a close friendship.

How right my instincts were. After stepping foot in his house, I could no longer do anything correctly in his eyes.
“What are you doing? Take your shoes off. What the hell kind of socks are those?” (A: Black dress socks.)
“Would you sit down already, I know my house is nice. Stand up, we're going to move this table. Sit down, dammit!”
If I tried to talk to anyone else in the room, “What, you care more about them than the guy who invited you?”
If I asked about the toys around the house and what I assumed was his child, “What's it to you?”
If I ate, I was wrong. If not, he was insulted.
If I was serious, “You don't understand anything I say.” If I smiled, “What are you laughing at?”
Needless to say, the whole exchange was laced with some of the more choice cuss words of the rich Russian lexicon.

His affable door step nature had become irrationally confrontational. My biggest clue that this was his own problem and not anything I had done was the discomfort with which his wife and close friends sat around the table. I started to recognise other tell-tale signs of drunkeness. He was overly affectionate toward his guy friends, couldn't discern minor pronunciation mistakes, was more than a tad rosy in the cheeks, and repeated himself often. His mantra: “I don't love Americans.” When asked why, his answer was, “I don't like McDonald's.”

His wife Alla was such a trooper. If not for her, I would have felt so much more uncomfortable than I already did. She stayed on him throughout. “Leave him alone. You already said that, and it was rude the first time. We've already discussed this behaviour. You need to go to bed. Why in God's name did you invite him over here if you don't want him to get to know us at all? That's enough, go smoke a cigarette.” After thirty minutes of hen-pecking and “I don't love Americans,” Alla managed to shuffle him out the door for a smoke. When she returned to the kitchen, she flicked her jugular in the universal Soviet symbol which means That guy's wasted and told me, “You had better leave now before he comes back. Don't open the door for anyone.” I thanked her profusely for the invitation, food, defence, and hospitality, and scurried across the hall to the sanctuary of my own apartment, without further incident.

*          *          *          *          *

On my way to the market the next morning to gather supplies for cooking club, I hear someone bellow across the crowded street, “Oy, Amerikanitz! Get over here!” Naturally, the morning market throng is staring at me as I tip my cap in a 'Yep, that's me.' sort of gesture. There is Andrei, and I'm nervous. I left last night in secret, without saying goodbye or shaking hands. Russian men can be so weird about that, even if you're not specifically a guest in their home. All seems to be fine, to my relief. I get introduced around to another 5 people, all of whom are very kind. Andrei is apparently still drunk, and has no recollection of what took place last night. “Did I tell you how much I don't love Americans?” Yes. Yes you did.

*          *          *          *          *

Another day passes, and I pass Andrei in the stairwell. This must be the first time we've ever spoken and been sober, because he is extremely contrite. He tells me how much he hopes nothing offended me the other night, and apologises for his drunken behaviour. I sweep it all under the rug, wanting only to move on without incident.

It's nice to know that, when sober, he is a perfectly polite man. It's discouraging how rarely he seems to be that way, though. We've gone several days back at our customary nod and hello, and I take comfort in the fact that Alla is indeed an ally. The last thing I need is more neighbour problems, and all I wanted was to be nice and buy some groceries. That's the last T-shirt I translate.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Mini H.E.A.L.

One of the major ongoing projects in Ukraine is HEAL. The primary focus of this project is a summer camp which helps combat the major problems facing Ukraine: human trafficking, HIV/AIDS, healthy relationships, and leadership development. The project doesn't just stop at the end of two weeks in July, however. Years back, a team of ingenious PCV's modelled a weekend day camp after the summer version, in order that the message reach more students in smaller schools with lower English levels. That's my school!

As with anything remotely new, my Ukrainians liked the idea of hosting an anti-AIDS program that would bring volunteers and T-shirts, but when the project started coming together there was increased scepticism. Our students will not want to sing songs, and they will not participate in discussions about sex. Our parents will complain if we demonstrate how to use condoms. Our cafeteria workers will not be able to make lunch. You will have difficulty gathering 30 students. No one will understand what you are talking about, and we can not translate everything.

Naturally, challenges were overcome. 30 students joined and, after an acclimation period, really got involved in the camp songs and chants. They participated in the discussions, activities, and competitions. Everyone had an excellent time, and several parents sent their thanks. One male student's mother told our principal that she was so glad that her son had had an opportunity to learn this valuable information at such a pivotal point in his life (8th grade). We were even thanked for the condom demonstration. Students came up to me all throughout the week after and asked if they could participate the following weekend (sorry, one time only), and several expressed interest in attending the full camp in the summer.

Of course, I had a boatload of help. Three extremely motivated and talented students came from across state lines at their own expense to act as youth counsellors and quasi-translators. They were total rock stars, and there's something valuable about receiving the message from peers instead of a bunch of foreign adults. Two other PCV's also came down from eastern towns in order to facilitate lessons. I could have maybe fumbled through teaching all thirty kids at once, but the ability to split the students into smaller groups was crucial. Most importantly, one obscenely knowledgeable and generous volunteer in particular came with all the lessons and materials necessary to make our two-day camp a success. In reality, this only happened because of her brains and enthusiasm.

Blah, okay. Pictures of kids learning!

Drawing healthy versus infected cells

Some brick faces in there.

Biology lesson

Some ice breaker that I wasn't a part of... 

Yay! Happy students!

The main event...

Doing an activity on stigma and discrimination.

Prejudice activity

Everyone's favourite ice breaker: People to People!

Bullying lesson

The winning team's paper tower. Leadership and communication succeed!

Tired, sick, but carrying on

Everyone receives T-shirts, bracelets, diplomas, and smiles!

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Defence

Government funding here is not, as you might expect, doled out evenly regardless of merit and without incentive for improvement. Government employees, let's use teachers as an example, are asked to "defend" their skills every 5 years. If a teacher can prove that they are implementing modern methodological methods, improving students' abilities, and successfully imparting the required national curriculum, they receive a raise. If not, they are stuck at entry level pay for another 5 years. This process is called "defence," and it entails a lot of preparation, stress, and observation by important officials from the capital.

Just as teachers' pay is determined by these demonstrations of success and improvement, so is the House of Culture's funding. Any HoC receives a base budget from their local administration, in our case the Lutuginsky Region. However, if a HoC has dance, theatrical, or musical groups that are performing at a particularly high level, those groups can earn the status of "National." This means that the local administration's base budget is supplemented by a federal bump. This is rewarded since, aside from encouraging excellence, it is also assumed that excellent groups will need better costumes, transportation to festivals, and registration fees for competitions. The more National groups a HoC has, the more its overall funding.


Okolitsa (The Outskirts) defended its National status last Monday. Given that we are a "Cossack Folklore" group, we not only had to build a vocal repertoire, but also weave it into a skit that demonstrated traditions, told popular stories, and showed dance styles. We even prepared a spread of Cossack foods for the judges (which seemed ever so slightly like bribery).

Our local newspaper Glorious Labour, quoting the Director of the Lugansk Oblast Centre of National Arts, Honoured Employee of the Ukrainian Department of Culture, and Representative of the Certification Commission Vasily Yarovoy:
Today you have demonstrated the traditions of Ukrainian musical art, and what I've seen today has simply touched my soul. Yourperformance had wonderful voices, it had the beautiful spirit of giving, a high level of mastery and just a shocking atmosphere....It had soul, and that's all from you. Thank you for bringing our culture - Russian, Ukrainian, Don Basin Cossack - to the people. I'm proud that I myself have the opportunity to congratulate you. Such a young group, which means you are going to go places. Best of luck! Be creative!
 The result: we succeeded in defending our National title.


You can find more from the Okolitsa defence performance here.

Monday, October 14, 2013

Escaping Arrest

It starts like any good crime story would: four guys, sitting around a table, discussing which pop songs to adapt for their Christmas concert. Unlike K-pop, I have yet to become interested in Russian music, so you can imagine how very little I had to add to this conversation. I got bored, I went home. I thought that was the end of the excitement for the day, but it turns out I was just a hair's breadth away from being cuffed and incarcerated.

It wasn't long after I left the House of Culture that Mikhail, Sergei, and Artyom followed after me. September brought nothing but bone-chilling rain, but last week was бабье лето. The boys decided to enjoy what little remained of the nice fall weather by sitting in the park behind the HoC and enjoying a beer. As it turns out, this park is regularly cruised by cops looking to bust gopniks violating the open-container law. My three friends get nicked. I would totally have been right there.

This should have been the end of the story, which really wouldn't have been worth sharing. However, it's Ukraine, and nothing is rarely as simple as drink your beer in the park, go down to the station, pay your fine. When the boys arrived at the station, they were sat in a waiting area under supervision while an officer ran their documents. You see, the penalty is weighted by the repetition of the offence. Only by looking up citizens in the system by their passport numbers can the police know the difference between a first timer (off with a warning) or a third (257UAH).

Luckily for the guys, there had been a power outage, causing a system reboot: a system reboot which, for whatever reason, wasn't working so well. While waiting for an hour to be punished, Misha, Seryoja, and Tyoma sat around the waiting room under the heavy glare of area babushkas. Already busted for drinking on government property, they asked the cops if it was fine to finish up their beers, so as not to let it go to waste. They ended up spending the hour drinking with the policemen and debating the merits of the law. In the end, the system never did work (what system here ever does?), so my friends were released with no penalty and a good buzz. Justice done.

70% of me wishes I hadn't skipped out on the harrowing adventure. The other 30% regrets the irony that, while a first-hand account would have made for a better story, I would not have felt comfortable telling that story because all my bosses read this blog.

Monday, October 07, 2013

Ukrainian Comic Con

Ok, maybe not. More like an exhibition of Soviet comic artists and authors. But still, I've been looking for this sort of thing throughout my 19 months in Ukraine; the art scene, the counter-culture, Spiderman in Russian, locals who look more like Tank Girl than receptionist Barbie.


The event was held at the ArtPRICHAL gallery in Kiev, a nifty little art space wedged in under a bridge along the Dnepr river. The front of the room consisted of a few tables where vendors were selling comics and graphic novels, mostly by American authors, both in English and Russian. The back of the space was set up for lectures about a variety of topics, including art techniques, new technologies, and breaking into the industry. One of those new technologies was being featured at a small station in the centre of the room: a digital pad that registers a stylus and renders its strokes onto a computer screen.


Lining the walls of the whole gallery, poster-sized reproductions of comic book pages were hung. For me, this was the main attraction. All of these comics were written and drawn by ex-Soviet authors and artists. It was enthralling to see what kind of graphic art is coming out of this region, all of it burgeoning and creative. Not surprisingly, very little of it was influenced by the DC/Marvel giants in the American industry. There was rather a strong connection between Asian manga and this art style, though not exclusively. Some pages were reminiscent of Shel Silverstein, some of Tim Burton, while still others were akin to webcomics such as Penny Arcade.

Without any further blathering, some of the pieces that I found interesting:

History of a samurai
"Harikiri!"
The End.
"I am not a cat!"
Several panels from the textless comic "The Red Thread," which reminded me of Harold and the Purple Crayon.
"The Forgotten," another textless story about a monkey and his dog, abandoned in space, and how the come home.
One of the really fun things about reading comics in Russian is seeing how they put sound into text. "SKREEEEEEE TOOD!" (a squeeky hinge and then a door slam)
4 from a whole Farside-esque series of mini-comics in a book named simply "Ostrich." Basically, what happens in different situations when a timorous ostrich sticks its head underground.
For anyone living in the region (or anyone simply interested in some Russian comics) there is a big online vendor called On The Bus. This time next year, they should have a location open in Kiev as well. For anyone who has ever looked, you know that it's impossible to find comics in book stores here. If you're language learning, it is helpful to read something with pictures that also doesn't treat you like a 5 year old. Not only that, but there's lots of fun slang and colloquialisms. I'll be working through some X-Men this winter, and hopefully I will be able to give villainous monologues and witty one-liners in time for my close of service language test!

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Featured

Last Friday, I was honoured to be a guest blogger over at Waegook Tom's, a kindred travel and food blog from an ex-Korean-expat. Check out my article about reconciling Korean cravings in Eastern Europe, featured as part of Tom's series "Food Porn Friday."

Friday, August 30, 2013

Розкололось серце на дві половини.

In the past month I've taught at a seminar in the capital for teachers and volunteers, and I've also begun working on a section of a team-teaching manual for all teachers in Ukraine. However, most excitingly I've joined a group of Cossack singers. They sing songs native to the Zaporozhian region of the country (the most westerly river on this map), so everything we sing is in an archaic Ukrainian dialect (yuck), but the music is very beautiful and surprisingly eastern influenced. Here's one of the songs we're working on currently, and as soon as there's video of me in full Cossack garb belting bass and shaking tambourine, I'll be sure to post it.



Edit: As promised, here's a group shot of our folk group "The Outskirts." Let's play "Guess Who's American!"


Thursday, August 08, 2013

Camp MAKE

Peace Corps (in Ukraine at least) hosts a lot of summer camps. Some focus on English ability, some on HIV education and prevention. While many cover a broad swath of interests, others isolate a particular sliver of nerdiness like Model UN or Roman history. Girls only, boys only, debate camp, and soccer + AIDS testing: the choices are as varied as they are numerous. To staff these mega camps can be, by some reports, a stressful nightmare week filled with misbehaving children and headbutting with Ukrainian directors, or it can be my experience.

Camp MAKE (Multiculturalism * Action * Knowledge * Empowerment) is one of those camps painted in broad strokes. Over the 10 days, we taught everything from East Asian dance to Simon and Garfunkel, water colour painting to CPR, environmentalism to speech writing, improv comedy to American football. We also rocked their collective socks with a series of team building challenges, making them perform acrobatics in the linguistic, scientific, logic, physical, engineering, and artistic fields.

While the classes were great fun, it was only because the people were so awesome. The 90 students at this camp came from all over the country, and they were some of the best Ukraine has to offer. The level of enthusiasm, creativity, and intelligence was simply astounding. If Ukraine weren't so politically...shady, I would say there were future presidents at this camp, but suffice it to say that all these kids will be playing important roles in their country's future.

Enough blathering, you can tell just how much fun it was from the pictures!
There were dress-up days:

America and Ukraine Day
Super Hero Day 
Dead Day
Twin Day
There was learning:

Still-life Painting
Geography
Human Anatomy
There were team challenges:

People to People!
Team name/poster/chant creation
A murder mystery
Field Day
And there was just wholesome fun:

Humiliation for Russian speaking
Dorm cooking night
Funky Chicken
Trivia night
Babushkas sticking out their tongues
Camp games
Card game night
A big thank you from all the staff and students to everyone who helped make this camp a home run! Your donations helped these kids have a wonderful 10 days that they won't soon forget.

Friday, July 12, 2013

Okroshka (Окрошка)

It's too hot here to eat soup. Everyone agrees. Sweating in our homes or at the lakeside, the idea of a muggy bowl of borscht is wildly unappealing. Since lettuce is hard to come by and I'm tired of the go-to Uke "salad" of chopped tomatoes and cucumbers, what's the next best cool-down meal? Cold soup. Cold dairy soup. It's really much better than it sounds.

There are several variations of okroshka broth. Some are made healthily with kefir or with yoghurt. Others embrace their inner trailer park by using mayonnaise. Still others mix in beets for a lavender, bridal shower look. The following is the classic recipe: sour cream diluted with water and zested with lemon juice. The result is extremely refreshing, crisp, and not entirely unhealthy.

You need to do a lot of boiling and cubing, so it's best to make a lot at one time. If you keep the broth in one container and the contents in another, it'll last several days in the fridge without getting soggy.
  • 4 boiled eggs
  • 2-3 boiled potatoes
  • 2-4 cucumbers
  • 250 g of ham
  • 150 g of radish
Everything gets cubed up, about peanut-sized. 


Stir it all together with a handful of minced dill, parsley, and green onion.


The broth is easy. For every cup of sour cream, you need a litre of water. An average amount would be about a cup and a half of sour cream and 1.5 L of water, but some people like it chunkier. Add salt and lemon juice to taste. I don't know about other countries, but here it's possible to find citric acid powder (лимонная кислота), which is commonly used instead of lemon juice.



No matter how you prepare it, okroshka is a brisk summer treat. Spice it up with mustard or horseradish. Serve it with ice cubes. Use kvas instead of water. There's no limit to the number of variations! Enjoy, and stay cool.

Sunday, July 07, 2013

New Music Video

These past few months, my friends and I have been helping a film student build her graduation portfolio. Last week, we were filming her latest work: a music video. Though I myself am not actually in the video, I was the cross-field bed schlepper, a synchronized candle extinguisher, and the curtain skirt undulator. Despite all that, I could not have predicted how eerie the final product would be. The song was so lyrical and I only worked on the sunshine scenes. What a surprise!

Saturday, July 06, 2013

Health Concerns

To an American, lots of countries approach medicine and health in ways that seem...well, foreign. Koreans believed that if you left a fan running overnight without opening the windows, the closed circulation would literally kill you. Eating dog soup was considered holistic Viagra. In major hospitals, open containers of blood and urine samples would sit next to each other, but sitting on a desk was dirty.

I'm only able to speak with any authority on Korea's idiosyncrasies because of the extended time I've spent there. Just passing through a country isn't enough to unearth these traits. More time is required before the peculiarities of health beliefs present themselves. After 15 months in Ukraine, I've been educated in some of the unexpected effects on my health that I would never have expected. Here are 8 things Ukrainians wig out about.

Sitting
Seemingly harmless, sitting can lead to serious consequences. A Ukrainian would never be caught sitting on the ground or on any concrete for that matter. This stems from the belief that such cold surfaces will render you infertile. Interestingly, neither the season nor your gender seem to be a factor. Ancient and unfamiliar women have no qualms about admonishing you for breaking this tenet.

Cold Water
As with most other countries, it's difficult to find liquids at a sufficiently cold temperature. Ice is a luxury, and in the summer even grocery store refrigerators may be used as simple shelf space to conserve electricity. I've heard echoes of the same widespread belief that cold water hinders digestion, but that's not its most interesting health property. Ukrainians believe that ice water is an immune system booster. One of my neighbours pours a bucket of cold water over himself every evening, and he's not alone. On the cover of our school's health text book is a man doing just that. The permeation of this belief was best seen during the Epiphany ceremony in January, when several dozen townsfolk baptised themselves in our frozen lake. Even those who eschewed the privilege averred that no one could possibly get sick after such a plunge.

Wind
Anyone who has taken public transport in this country can attest to the aggravation this health concern causes. I say wind, but the Russian word is separate from typical wind, being more correctly translated draft. Whereas Koreans believe that the closed windows will kill you, Ukrainians believe the exact opposite. When I first moved in to my apartment, the men who were helping me were reluctant to place the bed under the window. Small cracks in the window will let in drafts, which would kill me. Numerous times on buses or trains I've opened windows, only to be barked at by someone behind me. There are children and the elderly on this bus! Are you trying to kill someone!

Chalk
It's a common occurrence in Ukraine to brush against a wall in a stairwell or public building and later find that your whole shoulder is dusty and white. Until several months ago, I believed Ukraine was using chalk as a cheap alternative to paint. Only recently was I corrected. It hadn't dawned on me that the cheapest alternative to paint is nothing. So why rub chalk on all the walls? Locals tell me that this coat of chalk acts as an antibacterial. I think it begs the question: why have we got bacteria all over our concrete walls?

The Common Cold
Three things that I love to ask people from other countries: what do you put on pizza, what do you do to fight hangovers, and what is your cure for the common cold? Well, in Ukraine we add ketchup and mayonnaise, we drink cognac to beat the headache, and if you feel a head cold coming on you need, you guessed it, vodka. Not just any vodka, however. Ukrainians drink a hot pepper and honey infused vodka, slightly warm or at least at room temperature, chased with a lemon slice, followed by a good sweat. This is usually induced by immediately burying yourself in all the blankets in the house.

Hats
This is another touchy subject for the grandmother police force that patrols the town. Your hat must appropriately reflect the weather conditions and is, naturally, their business. Warm winter hats are a must if you don't want every person in town to inquire as to its whereabouts. What I find really interesting is this: the hat doesn't have to cover the ears. Covering up my ears was always one of my mother's winter bundling priorities, yet here it needs only to be on top of the head. Leaving the house without a hat in winter is a recipe for your death of cold, and it is every woman's job to prevent you from coming to such an end. Don't make the mistake, however, of wearing an even partially winter hat into the warmer months: that will kill you, too.

18:00
Something mystic and esoteric occurs at six in the evening. Common dieting wisdom in Ukraine tells us that anything consumed after six will become fat, regardless of what you do in the evening or how late you stay up. For whatever reason, lots of women in my town believe and follow this commandment: после 18:00 не жрать (After 6, don't scarf). In fact, I've seen it more then once as a refrigerator magnet, warning off would-be late night snackers.

Jogging
This applies to most aerobic exercise that isn't folded in to sports like soccer or basketball. Ukrainians can not comprehend why we exercise using transportation. Running is for going places, but you don't go anywhere. You just go in circles. It can't be good for your heart to move so fast. I have actually heard people tell me this. Lots of other volunteers jog around their towns, and they will support me in this. The staring is ubiquitous and consistent. I guess no one explains to them that the accelerated heart rate is exactly what causes the weight loss, or perhaps Ukrainians simply don't support detaching the process (sport) and the goal (exercise).

I'm always interested in uncovering new oddities about this and other countries. If you're reading from Ukraine or any other foreign country and have another strange health story you'd like to share, leave me a comment! I'd love to read about it. 

Monday, July 01, 2013

Kulesh


Kулеш (pronounced cool-YESH) is a camp fire soup. It originated as an army food of the Cossacks in Zaporozhye, but has since spread to camp sites everywhere. It's simple, cheap, and comforting, much like chicken noodle soup. Let's learn how to make it together. A Ukrainian will tell you that it is mandatory to make this soup over a fire, but honestly there's no reason why you can't make this on the range. Well, maybe there's one reason, but it's not a deal breaker. We'll come back to that in a minute.

Starting at the beginning, you'll need:

  • 1.5 kg Russet potatoes
  • 500 g cooked meat (Feel free to use any sort of leftovers you have around the kitchen. We used pulled pork, but chicken is also very popular.)
  • 1 onion
  • 1 carrot
  • 200 g millet
  • 3 bay leaves
  • salt/pepper
  • 1 cup greens (parsley, dill, green onion)
To hang the cauldron, Sergey cut some green branches, two with forks in them to be pounded into the ground and one a bit sturdier from which the pot could reliably hang. That metal wall was set up to protect the fire from the wind. We got the fire up, then started to boil the water. The onion goes in peeled but otherwise inatact. The bay leaves should be added as well.


Once the water is rolling, it's time for the potatoes. They should be peeled and cut into small cubes.


When the potatoes are done, It's time for carrots, cut julienne, and millet. If you are like me and have no clue what millet is, you could use a comparable grain like barley or even oatmeal. If you do know what millet is, good for you, but you're probably one of those gluten-free loonies, so bad for you. If you live in Ukraine and want to find millet, ask at your rinok for пшено (ударение на втором слог).



When the millet is soft, add the meat and greens. Boil for 5 more minutes and then serve. It's that simple. We actually used this seemingly disgusting boiled-pulled-pork-in-a-jar product. It's not as bad as it sounds. Or looks.




The only reason this must be done on an open flame, other than tradition of course, is the final step. Sergey took another green branch, peeled the bark off it, and then put the raw wood in the fire. Once the wood was blackened, He actually stirred the soup with the charred branch. It didn't make everything taste like cigarettes, as I expected it would. It just added the illusion that we had grilled the meat. Therefore, if you actually grilled the meat that you used, I think you could approximate the smokiness fairly well.


So, that's kulesh! Of course there are lots of variations. One of the more popular ones involves less water and a few beaten eggs at the end, yielding porridgy results similar to Korean juk. We, however, just stuck with the original, and it was both fun to make and filling to eat. I hope you guys enjoy it as much as we did!